Normally my agenda for hiking in Iowa is to learn more about nature, challenge myself physically, and enjoy my outdoor surroundings. However, my quick jaunt last week to Hardin County Conservation's Headquarters Segment had just one goal in mind: BLACK RASPBERRIES. These aggregate fruits will stain your hands, tongue, and heart and leave you wanting more. I had visited the Headquarters Segment a few years before with my friend Heather, and we filled our little buckets with with nearly wild abandon. It was difficult to practice the forager's Rule of Thirds when it came to these sweet, sweet blackcaps. We tried. We really did. But if you've ever tasted a black raspberry pie, all syrupy and warm from the oven, you would have difficulty with restraint as well.
These plants can be toxic to humans; the fruit must be fully ripe for harvest. There were a couple of tiny fruits on the underside of the leaves, and I left them to continue to grow. I even identified poison ivy without tramping through it! Not getting me today, buster! The Headquarters Segment is pretty flat and can be walked at a leisurely pace. I did just that! The only downside to my stroll was the substantial amount of dew on the paths; my shoes and socks were sopping wet by the end of my excursion. The wet socks couldn't dampen my spirits though. The day was too sunny to feel bad!
I will most likely return to the Headquarters Segment. The black raspberries are still out there, ripening and waiting. Soon.
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While waiting out those long winter months, I burrowed under my grandma's heavy quilt and did what I do best: plan. Nothing excites me more than staring at maps, jotting down lists, and creating efficient travel plans. (You might be thinking, this sounds extremely Type A! You are correct!) I became familiar with the Iowa DNR's website as I perused trail guides, calculated the closest state parks that I wanted to visit, and imagined the new sights I would soon see. One night I stumbled a page I had somehow never seen before on the DNR's site; the program featured on the page was aimed exclusively at women who wanted to become more confident in their outdoor abilities. It's known as BOW (Becoming an Outdoors-Woman), and the program hosts workshops internationally for women to "explore, learn, and grow" in their outdoor skills. Where has this knowledge been all my life?! I was so excited to learn there was a dedicated space for me to practice fledgling outdoor skills with other women who were learning right along with me. Registration opened up at the end of January, and I was one of the first 20 people to sign up. (Have I mentioned that I love to plan and be prepared?)
However, it soon didn't matter that I didn't know anyone. All of the ladies were so welcoming, and I was soon joining groups for meals and even a game of Phase 10 one night! My first session was Backpacking & Camping. The skill level of our group ranged from having never camped while backpacking (me) to camping pros. The wealth of knowledge in the group, along with the desire to learn, was so amazing. I learned how to fit a backcountry pack and try it out on a short hike around camp. I even got to practice setting up and starting a Dragonfly stove. It would have been highly intimidating to try to figure out myself, but I felt comfortable trying it in a group setting. The first day ended with s'mores and an optional night hike (and I did it!), and then I was up and at 'em for Day 2 and hiking. Did you know that you can use a wide acorn cap as an emergency whistle? I didn't know this either until my hike on Day 2! (I have just Googled "acorn cap whistle" and received thousands of results, but every single person in my group was amazed at this newfound wisdom. It wasn't just me!) Not only did I find a sturdy acorn cap to take with me on future hikes, but I also practiced accurately identifying honeysuckle, wild garlic, and poison ivy. The honeysuckle blossom is one of nature's falsest advertisements; it does not taste like anything remotely similar to honey. The poison ivy I identified after tromping through a patch of it. Progress! Our group wasn't keen on the honeysuckle, but we became eagle eyes in search of golden oyster mushrooms. We found several honey holes. The dark yellow mushrooms were ready to be harvested, but the whitish mushrooms were past their "best by" date. The discovery also taught us a lesson in the rule of thirds when foraging: take no more than a third of the total volume of a plant for yourself. This leaves the majority of the plant for wildlife and propagation.
However, I will (cockily) say I took to kayaking like I'd been doing it for years. I could reverse my kayak, make it do a 360, and paddle quietly enough to get within five feet of a goose taking off from the water's surface. I'm not going white-water rafting anytime soon (don't worry, mom), but I now feel confident enough to take on the meandering river that snakes through my town. My fourth session on Day 3 was all about foraging. Even though I love hiking and walking, I feel somewhat detached since I don't know exactly what I'm looking at when I'm outdoors. Ignorance is not bliss in this case. There are so many plants in rural Iowa--plants that are tasty, plants that can heal, and plants that should come with their own biohazard signs. Already feeling overwhelmed with the sheer variety of plants just at Wesley Woods, our guide told us to start with two or three plants. We should really take several months to learn these plants, not just identify them. What do they look like in different seasons? What kind of stems or blossoms do they have? How do they smell? What's their leaf shape? Once those two or three plants have truly been learned, then it is time to begin again with new plants. Understanding what we're seeing and experiencing can help people feel more connected to our natural surroundings. We ended our session by preparing and eating the wonderful foods we foraged. In addition to shagbark hickory bark soda (club soda added to the bark syrup) and floral ice cream, we dined on dandelion and stinging nettle greens (picked from the tops of the leaves and wilted first) along with golden oyster mushroom fondue. The whole stick of butter most definitely played a part, but I could have eaten that entire crock of fondue on my own. I am a mushroom convert! I don't have many pictures of my BOW weekend because I was busy learning and having fun. Our guides were so excited to share their knowledge and interests (and learn from us too), and the atmosphere was so warm and welcoming. I still consider myself a tenderfoot after my first BOW, but now I've got some calluses. Metaphorical calluses! (I love it when I can work in literary devices.) I am excited to get out into the wild and put my newfound knowledge to practical use...starting with making that mushroom fondue. The next Iowa BOW will be Feb. 10-12, 2023 at Camp Okoboji. If you're not near Iowa, find the nearet one near you here. I had so much fun at the spring BOW that I may have to rethink my "no winter activities" stance and join everyone in Okoboji!
I've always had a soft spot for Backbone State Park. Like many northeast Iowa kids, I spent birthdays swimming in Backbone's lake, lazy summer days wading through the streams in search of minnows and unique rocks, and high school afternoons paddling and grilling out with friends near the beach. But would Backbone still be as glorious as the last time I tromped along its creeks and trails? Would it still live up to my childhood memories? I had hiked at Backbone many times before I got up off the couch in 2020, but (and I'm not ashamed to admit this) it had been a few decades. My childhood friend Ashley accompanied me on this hike; it was invigorating to not only hike our (literal) old stomping grounds, but it was wonderful to catch up with Ashley! The East Lake Trail was a great place to start. We started our trek near the beach parking lot (circled in red on the map) and found the East Lake Trail sign near the lake's edge. As we talked and traversed, we spotted reminders of our younger days at Backbone, like the paddling boats lined up near the iconic stone tower and a lookout deck above the trail that seemed to show us the entire world when we were small. The nostalgia factor of this hike was definitely a 10/10. The trail was relatively easy to handle with just a bit of elevation and some downed trees/branches to navigate around. However, there was one major obstacle Ashley and I could not avoid: cankerworms. So. Many. Cankerworms. (At least, I think they were cankerworms. I have verified them to the best of my Googling abilities.) These little brown worms hung from trees on silk threads and provided us with plenty of creepy-crawly sensations as we continually brushed them off our shirts, hats, and legs. The cankerworms could not stop us! We kept trekking! Ashley and I exited the East Lake Trail an hour later and crossed the road to reach the Backbone trailhead. Early settlers named this spot after the narrow limestone/dolomite ridges and rocks that resemble "the Devil's Backbone." The craggy terrain definitely looks otherworldly in northeast Iowa, but the landforms are just the remains of lime deposits created over 400 million years ago when Iowa was covered by a shallow tropical sea. And we get to tread all over them! This was the wrong day to forget my trusty hiking stick (sorry, Dad). However, Ashley and I made a great team as we helped each other step up, hop down, and find our footing amongst the rocks. I may have shouted, "I'm king of the world!" as we reached the tallest section of the trail (about 200 feet above the water). Take your time on the rocks--it may take a few more seconds to climb down rather than just jump, but sometimes a shortcut is not a shortcut. (And that's how I broke my ankle in 2008, kids! But that is a story for another day.)
Once you've crossed the initial rockiness of the Backbone, the trail will open up to eastern red cedar trees and other vegetation. Watch out for the exposed roots! There are multiple lookout spots along the loop of the trail for a glimpse of the mighty Maquoketa River and the scenery below. A prime viewing time would be autumn when all of the park is lit up in golds, oranges, and reds. Ashley and I debated trekking the West Lake Trail to create a full loop, but her hip and my ankle said that trail should probably be saved for another day. Instead, we got back on the East Lake Trail since it was a bit shorter. We were both sweaty, tired, and happy at the end of the hike and promised each other to hike together more often.
Many experiences of our younger days seem diminished when we revisit them as adults--our elementary school is so much smaller than we remembered or our early favorite movie is no longer funny. However, Backbone isn't smaller or any less impressive than it was when I was younger. There is still so much to explore and enjoy. I can't wait to revisit the park in a new season and create even more memories. Final distance: 6.1 miles! Total time: 2.5 hours of moving time Temperature: 77 degrees Fahrenheit Bug bites/ticks: 1 mosquito bite Water consumed: 20 oz (should have used a bigger bottle) Food consumed: none during hiking, but I snacked on a little packet of Justin's Maple Almond Butter afterward. It hit the spot! Dolliver Memorial State Park near Lehigh, Iowa checks all of my "day hiking" boxes for beginning hikers. You want a bit of a challenge with elevation? Check out the Indian Trail! You want easy steppin' instead? Meander the Center Trail! You want gorgeous views? Just look at my pictures!
I realize that Iowa doesn't have purple mountain majesties or oceans white with foam. That's okay! Filled with lush green foliage and rust-colored sandstone bluffs, Dolliver doesn't need mountains or oceans to satisfy the senses. Even though it was a beautiful summer day, few people were on the trails. The scenery, coupled with the solitude, totally connected me to the journey of the trails. I was just focused on the present and my senses. For me, this is the best feeling when hiking. (As a side note to fellow park visitors: stop carving your names into the bluffs! Show some respect. Sheesh!) After the rockiness of the Boneyard Trail, the Center trail gave me a chance to catch my breath and appreciate the sounds and sights of a woodland walk. There were some steps (stepppps!) on the Copperas Trail, but they were gently sloped for the most part. I really wanted to see the ceremonial/burial mounds located in the southeast corner of the park. Native Americans created these mounds almost a thousand years ago, and they overlook the Des Moines River from the top of the Indian Trail. However, I made a totally newbie move and saved that trail for last. I was wiped out by the time I got to the Indian Trail, and all those dang steps nearly did me in. I should have gone back the next morning, but I was sore and ready to head home after a sleepless night. This hike was the longest I had hiked at one time, and I was extremely proud of myself. I would love to go back in the early fall and see the park awash in fiery autumnal colors. For any tenderfoot trekker, Dolliver Memorial State Park is a great place to get excited about hiking. Final distance: 4 miles
Total time: Maybe 3 hours? I took some breaks and didn't have a watch. Temperature: 80 degrees Fahrenheit Bug bites/ticks: 0 Book read at night: Ariadne by Jennifer Saint Many people may be afraid to start hiking because they think it's an expensive activity. Good news! Unless you're going to be completing a multi-week trek, you do not need to spend a ton of money! There are many cheap options for budget-friendly clothes and hiking gear for beginning hikers. Probably the best tip about hiking gear I can give beginners is to check out the activewear section at TJ Maxx. I've found leggings, sun shirts, and other items that wick moisture and help block the sun. The clothes wash well and are pretty sturdy. Depending on the day, I've also had luck at Goodwill or other thrift stores. I like to keep it simple for most of my hikes. A fanny pack/water bottle combo from Outdoor Pro has everything a beginning hiker wants. There are several zippered pouches--I have plenty of room for my keys, phone, chapstick, and a little snack. The pack is also pretty comfortable. Look, Ma, fanny packs are back in style! For hikes that require more stuff, I carry the bright orange Venture Pal pack. Bright orange = safety first! I'm able to carry my water bottle in the outside mesh pouch, there are several zippered pouches inside for smaller items, and the chest strap can be useful as well. The backpack, although water resistant, is not water proof. You'll probably want to put a garbage bag or some other covering over it if you're hiking in the rain. ![]() I realize that Chacos and Merrell shoes don't exactly scream "cheap!" However, your feet are really the one true place you shouldn't skimp. I've had this pair of Merrell Vibram shoes for over a decade, and although they look like they need to be put in the wash (I was tramping through water earlier), they've have held up beautifully and are my sturdy go-to hiking shoes. I originally bought the Chacos Z/2 sandals to help out with sore feet in the summer. I don't use them a whole lot when hiking because I like to protect my feet from bugs and possible poison ivy, but these sandals work well in hot weather. As far as headgear goes, all you need is a baseball cap for the warmer weather. I've got a few old caps I rotate through, but my gray FitKicks is really easy to wash and fold to store away. ![]() It can be really fun to go to a big outdoors store and buy a pile of new gear. What's not really fun is looking at the receipt. I started day hiking with just a few exercise shirts and pants from budget-friendly stores and a hiking pack from Wal-Mart. When I'm ready to try overnight camping, I know I can rely on friends to borrow a sleeping bag or tent until I'm ready to purchase my own. Hiking is only as expensive as you make it. Enjoy the great outdoors on the cheap! |
Meet Jessica
I'm a former couch potato and lifelong bookworm who stepped outside in 2020. This tenderfoot trekker is learning about the great outdoors one hike at a time. Archives
June 2023
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